Guide
to Zion National Park |
Zion
National Park is a United States National Park located
in the Southwestern United States, near Springdale, Utah.
A prominent feature of the 229-square-mile (593 km²)
park is Zion Canyon, 15 miles (24 km) long and up to half
a mile (800 m) deep, cut through the reddish and tan-colored
Navajo Sandstone by the North Fork of the Virgin River.
Located at the junction of the Colorado Plateau, Great
Basin, and Mojave Desert regions, this unique geography
and variety of life zones allow for unusual plant and
animal diversity. A total of 289 bird species, 75 mammals
(including 19 species of bat), 32 reptiles and numerous
plant species inhabit the park's four life zones: desert,
riparian, woodland, and coniferous forest. Notable megafauna
include Mountain Lions, Mule Deer and Golden Eagles, along
with reintroduced California Condors and Bighorn Sheep.
Common plant species include Cottonwood, Cactus, Datura,
Juniper, Pine, Boxelder, Sagebrush and various willows.
Human
habitation of the area started about 8,000 years ago with
small family groups of Native Americans; the semi-nomadic
Basketmaker Anasazi (300 CE) stem from one of these groups.
In turn, the Virgin Anasazi culture (500 CE) developed
as the Basketmakers settled in permanent communities.
A different group, the Parowan Fremont, lived in the area
as well. Both groups moved away by 1300 and were replaced
by the Parrusits and several other Southern Paiute subtribes.
The canyon was discovered by Mormons in 1858 and was settled
by that same group in the early 1860s. Mukuntuweap National
Monument was established in 1909 to protect the canyon,
and by 1919 the monument was expanded to become Zion National
Park (Zion is an ancient Hebrew word meaning a place of
refuge or sanctuary). The Kolob section was proclaimed
a separate Zion National Monument in 1937, but was incorporated
into the park in 1956.
The
geology of the Zion and Kolob canyons area includes nine
formations that together represent 150 million years of
mostly Mesozoic-aged sedimentation. At various periods
in that time, warm, shallow seas, streams, ponds and lakes,
vast deserts and dry near-shore environments covered the
area. Uplift associated with the creation of the Colorado
Plateaus lifted the region 10,000 feet (3000 m) starting
13 million years ago.
|

Zion National Park
Hotels Near Zion National Park
|
Notable
geographical features of the park
• National Park Service Map
• Virgin River Narrows
• Emerald Pools
• Hidden Canyon
• Angels Landing
• The Great White Throne
• Checkerboard Mesa
• The Three Patriarchs
• Kolob Arch, a remote cliff wall arch
Early exploration
The Historic period begins in the late 18th century, with
the exploration and settlement of southern Utah by Euro-Americans.
Padres Silvestre Vélez de Escalante and Francisco
Atanasio Domínguez passed near what is now the
Kolob Canyons Visitor Center on October 13, 1776, becoming
the first white men known to visit the area. In 1826,
trapper and trader Jedediah Smith led 16 men to explore
the area in a quest to find a route to California. These
and other explorations by traders from New Mexico blazed
the Old Spanish Trail, which followed the Virgin River
for a portion of its length. Captain John C. Fremont wrote
about his 1844 journeys in the region.
Mormon pioneers and the Powell expedition
In the 1850s, Mormon farmers from the Salt Lake area became
the first white people to settle the Virgin River region.
In 1851, the Parowan and Cedar City, Utah areas were settled
by Mormons who used the Kolob Canyons area for timber,
and for grazing cattle, sheep, and horses. They prospected
for mineral deposits, and diverted Kolob water to irrigate
crops in the valley below. Mormon settlers named the area
Kolob - in Mormon scripture, the star nearest the residence
of God.
In
1858, they had expanded 30 miles south to the lower Virgin
River. That year, a Southern Paiute guide led young Mormon
missionary and interpreter Nephi Johnson into the upper
Virgin River area and Zion Canyon. Johnson wrote a favorable
report about the agricultural potential of the upper Virgin
River basin, and returned later that year to found the
town of Virgin. More settlers arrived in 1860 and 1861
and settled the towns of Rockville and Springdale. Catastrophic
flooding by the river (especially in the Great Flood of
18611862), little arable land, and poor soils made agriculture
in the upper Virgin River a risky venture.
In
1861 or 1862, Joseph Black made the arduous journey to
Zion Canyon and was very impressed by its beauty. His
stories about the Canyon were at first seen as exaggerated,
prompting his neighbors to call the Canyon "Joseph's
Glory". The floor of Zion Canyon was settled in 1863
by Isaac Behunin, who farmed corn, tobacco, and fruit
trees. The Behunin family lived in Zion canyon near the
site of today's Zion Lodge during the summer, and wintered
in Springdale. Isaac Behunin is credited with naming Zion,
a reference to a place of peace mentioned in the Bible.
Two
more families settled Zion canyon in the next couple of
years, bringing with them cattle and other domesticated
animals. The canyon floor was farmed until Zion became
a Monument in 1909.
The Crawford ranch was located near the mouth of Zion
Canyon, in Springdale.The Powell Geographic Expedition
entered the area in 1869 after their first trip through
the Grand Canyon. Powell returned in September 1872 and
descended the East Fork of the Virgin River (Parunaweap
Canyon) to the town of Shunesberg. He may have made the
climb up to Zion Canyon, and named it Mukuntuweap under
the impression that that was the Paiute name. In the same
year, Geologist Grove Karl Gilbert, working with the Wheeler
Survey, descended the North Fork of the Virgin River from
Navajo Lake to Zion Canyon, making the first recorded
descent of "The Zion Narrows". It is likely
that he named this remarkable section of canyon in the
process.
Powell
Survey photographers, Jack Hillers and James Fennemore,
first visited the Zion Canyon and Kolob Plateau region
in the spring of 1872. Hillers returned in April of 1873
to add more photographs to the "Virgin River Series"
of photographs and stereographs. Hillers described wading
the canyon for 4 days and nearly freezing to death to
take his photographs. Geologist Clarence Dutton later
mapped the region and artist William H. Holmes documented
the scenery.
Protection and tourism
From April through October, the scenic drive in Zion Canyon
is closed to private vehicles, and visitors ride the frequent
shuttle busesPaintings of the canyon by Frederick S. Dellenbaugh
were exhibited at the St. Louis World's Fair in 1904,
followed by a glowing article in Scribner's Magazine the
next year. That, along with previously created photographs,
paintings, and reports, led to U.S. President William
Howard Taft's proclamation creating Mukuntuweap National
Monument on July 31, 1909. In 1917, the acting director
of the newly created National Park Service visited the
canyon and proposed changing its name Zion from the locally
unpopular Mukuntuweap. That occurred the following year.
The United States Congress added more land and established
Zion National Park on November 19, 1919. A separate Zion
National Monument, the Kolob Canyons area, was proclaimed
on January 22, 1937, and was incorporated into the park
on July 11, 1956.
Travel
to the area before it was a national park was rare due
to its remote location, lack of accommodations, and the
absence of real roads in southern Utah. Old wagon roads
were upgraded to the first automobile roads starting about
1910, and the road into Zion Canyon was built in 1917,
to as far as The Grotto.
By
the summer of 1917, touring cars could reach Zion Canyon,
and the Wylie Camp was established - a tent camp providing
the first visitor lodging in Zion Canyon. The Utah Parks
Company, a subsidiary of the Union Pacific Railroad, acquired
the Wylie Camp in 1923, and offered ten-day rail/bus tours
to Zion, Bryce, Kaibab, and the North Rim of the Grand
Canyon. The Zion Lodge complex was built in 1925 at the
site of the Wylie tent camp. Architect Gilbert Stanley
Underwood designed Zion Lodge in the "Rustic Style"
and the Utah Parks Company funded the construction. In
1968, the main lodge building was destroyed by fire but
was quickly rebuilt. The detached Western Cabins (photo)
survived and were added to the National Register of Historic
Places.
Tour buses at Zion Lodge in 1929. Tourism greatly increased
after paved all-weather highways were built to Zion.Work
on the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway started in 1927 to provide
reliable access between Springdale and the east side of
the park. The road opened in 1930 and park visitation
and travel in the area greatly increased. The most famous
feature of the highway is the 1.1-mile (1.8-km) Zion-Mount
Carmel Tunnel, which has six large windows cut through
the massive sandstone cliff. On the south side of the
tunnel, switchbacks take motorists from the tunnel to
the floor of Zion Canyon. On the east side the Zion-Mt.
Carmel Highway terminates at Mt. Carmel Junction and Highway
89, allowing visitors to travel by car to other national
parks, including Bryce Canyon and the Grand Canyon.
In
1896, local rancher John Winder improved the Native American
footpath up Echo Canyon so he could travel on horseback
up to the East Rim, and hence to Long Valley. This trail
was improved again about 1925 and became the East Rim
Trail. Other trails were built in 1925 including the West
Rim Trail and the Lady Mountain Trail. The auto road was
extended to the Temple of Sinawava, and a trail built
from there one mile to the start of the Narrows. The next
year saw construction of the Angels Landing Trail, and
two suspension bridges were built over the Virgin River.
The Hidden Canyon trail was built in 1928. The West Rim
and East Rim Trail were built for horse-back riding visitors,
and were blasted out of the sandstone in many places.
East portal of Zion-Mt. Carmel tunnel in early 1930s.
When it was built, the tunnel was the longest of its type
in the world.The original ranger cabin was built at The
Grotto in the 1920s. A real visitor center was first built
in the 1950s, facing the Temples and Towers of the Virgin.
Park facilities were redesigned in 2000, with the visitor
center converted to a human-history museum (photo) and
visitor center functions moved to a new solar powered
facility adjacent to the south entrance.
Zion
Canyon Scenic Drive provides access to Zion Canyon. Traffic
congestion in the narrow canyon was recognized as a major
problem in the 1990s and a public transportation system
using propane-powered shuttle buses was instituted in
the year 2000. From April through October, the scenic
drive in Zion Canyon is closed to private vehicles, and
visitors ride the frequent shuttle buses. The new plan
restored natural quiet to the canyon.
On
April 12, 1995, heavy rains triggered a landslide that
blocked the Virgin River in Zion Canyon. Over a period
of two hours, the river carved away 590 feet (190 m) of
the only exit road from the canyon, trapping 450 guests
and employees in the Zion Lodge. A one-lane temporary
road was constructed within 24 hours to allow evacuation
of the Lodge. A more stable, albeit temporary, road was
completed on May 25, 1995 to allow summer visitors to
access the park. This road was replaced with a permanent
road during the first half of 1996.
The
Zion-Mount Carmel Highway can be traveled year-round.
Access for over-sized vehicles requires a special permit,
and is limited to daytime hours, as traffic through the
tunnel must be one way to accommodate large vehicles.
The
5 mile (8 km) Kolob Canyons Road was built in the mid-1960s
to provide a scenic drive and access to the Kolob Canyons
section of the park. This road often closes in the winter.
|
The
park is located in southwestern Utah in Washington, Iron,
and Kane counties. Geomorphically, it is located on the
Markagunt and Kolob plateaus, at the intersection of three
North American geographic provinces: The Colorado Plateaus,
the Great Basin, and the Mojave Desert. The northern part
of the park is known as the Kolob Canyons section and is
accessible from Interstate 15, exit 40.
The 8,726 foot (2660 m) summit of Horse Ranch Mountain
(photo) is the highest point in the park; the lowest point
is the 3,666 foot (1117 m) elevation of Coal Pits Wash,
creating a relief of about 5,100 feet (1500 m).
Streams in the area follow rectangular paths because
they follow jointing planes in the rocks. The headwaters
of the Virgin River are at about 9,000 feet (2700 m) and
the river empties into Lake Mead 200 miles (320 km) southeast
after flowing 8,000 feet (2400 m) downward. This gives
the Virgin a stream gradient that ranges from 50 to 80
feet per mile (0.91.5%)one of the steepest stream gradients
in North America.
Temple of Sinawava WaterfallThe road into Zion Canyon
is 6 miles long, ending at the Temple of Sinawava ("Sinawava"
refers to the Coyote God of the Paiute Indians[1][2]).
At the Temple, the canyon narrows and a foot-trail continues
to the mouth of the Zion Narrows, a spectacular gorge
with walls 40100 feet (1230 meters) wide and 1000 feet
(300 m) tall. The Zion Canyon road is served by a free
shuttle bus from early April to late October and by private
vehicles the other months of the year. Other roads in
Zion are open to private vehicles year-round.
View from MuseumOther areas of the park also offer outstanding
scenery. The east side of the park is served by the Zion-Mount
Carmel Highway which passes through the Zion-Mount Carmel
Tunnel and ends at Mt. Carmel Junction. On the east side
of the park notable park features include Checkerboard
Mesa and the East Temple and one of the more popular hikes,
the Canyon Overlook Trail.
West
of Zion Canyon, the Kolob Terrace area features The Subway,
a famous slot canyon hike, and Lava Point, with a spectacular
view of the entire area. The Kolob Canyons section, further
west near Cedar City, features one of the world's longest
arches, Kolob Arch.
Map of Zion National Park showing the Zion and Kolob canyon
sections.Spring weather is unpredictable, with stormy,
wet days being common, mixed with occasional warm, sunny
weather. Precipitation is heaviest in March. Spring wildflowers
bloom from April through June, peaking in May. Fall days
are usually clear and mild; nights are often cool. Summer
days are hot (95 °F to 110 °F; 35 °C to 43
°C), but overnight lows are usually comfortable (65
°F to 70 °F; 18 °C to 21 °C). Afternoon
thunderstorms are common from mid-July through mid-September.
Storms may produce waterfalls as well as flash floods.
Autumn tree-color displays begin in September in the high
country; inside Zion Canyon, autumn colors usually peak
in late October. Winter in Zion Canyon is fairly mild.
Winter storms bring rain or light snow to Zion Canyon
and heavier snow to the higher elevations. Clear days
may become quite warm, reaching 60 °F (16 °C);
nights are often 20 °F to 40 °F (-7 °C to
4 °C). Winter storms can last several days and make
roads icy. Zion roads are plowed, except the Kolob Terrace
Road and the Kolob Canyons Road, which are closed when
covered with snow. Winter driving conditions persist from
November through March.
|